(For questions or comments: .) | Going East - part 1: Introductory remarks Technical remark: this text includes Eastern European characters of ISO-8859-2. Who in Łódz does not recognize a Polish city, but British pounds with strange suffix, has the display options set unmatchingly (in web browsers: View - Encoding - Central / Eastern European ISO), as well at Z3oty instead zloty (but sometimes already the German umlauts go broken if viewed through Google Groups instead NNTP). Furthermore, I take the liberty to transcribe Russian names into Latin characters in the way as was customary in my school days, and not (necessarily) as it (today) is on road signs. Going again to Russia I had had some time in consideration, but year after year it didn't work out. The last time was in 2010 (5 years ago). After a few attempts at the beginning of 2014 a fellow rider was found (let's call him Hajo). But then came the icing of the political climate - do you still get a visa for more than 30 days, which would be inadequate or at least very tight to go to Lake Baikal? What if suddenly they disconnect the cash dispenser machines? What consequences the treatment of foreign motorcyclists in Russia has the not too courteous treatment of the Night Wolves (a Russian motorcycle club with relations to Putin) on their "Victory Tour" in the spring of 2015 to Poland and Berlin? But on the other hand, one could or should the Russian motorcyclists (who had so overwhelmingly friendly welcomed us last time) demonstrate right now that they have not been completely forgotten. A last time's acquaintance from Omsk wrote upon request to not worry because of the Night Wolves (thereby sounding as if they would look forward to a return visit as merry as a lark). | Going East - Part 2: Germany - Moscow-North ° Day 1 In the late morning of the actual departure day Hajo arrives at me. Via the A6 and A9 (with a Goldwing remaining in memory at a gas station that makes a racket as usual rather only Harleys) we go with our two Africa Twins towards Berlin and there still a bit more to the east until we stop for the night at a Spreewald inn. Initially it is still sunny, later cloudy but dry. The OSM maps for Russia at least I succeed to launch on the netbook in Mapsource after I had figured out what and how (documented in Russian) the installation batch file does: namely the adding the necessary registry keys (having previously has deleted old versions). This does not work during normal operation, but only when run as Administrator. ° Day 2 The German-Polish border facilities are giving (thanks to Schengen and abolished checks) not the freshest impression. We should equip us with some Złoty - even if we could pay by credit cards at gas stations mostly and at overnight stays frequently, at the latest for eating it is very advantageous to have the right cash. No cash dispenser machine is present at the border, but in one of the barracks a currency exchange office with reasonable looking difference between buying and selling rates. For 150 euros, there are 602 Polish złoty (even with transaction receipt and without transaction fees). On each of the following motorway service stations there also would have been cash dispenser machines. Shortly after it begins to rain - but almost as soon as we have put on the rain gear and continue 20km, it ends up again largely dry. Berlin - Warsaw is now a continuous motorway (in Poland A2 - called "highway of freedom"), but in sections subject to toll and not quite cheap. The 300 kilometers from the German-Polish border to Konin demand in three stages around 70 złoty (where obviously motorcycles are charged the same amount like cars). Additionally west of Łódz there are 5 more złoty (but here only half of the car toll and quite a long stretch). From Łódz to Warsaw, it is toll-free and leads one time through a labyrinth of poles of which is not entirely clear whether it represents a toll gate in construction or demolition. According to placard the toll booths would also accept euros at the rate 1:4 (to a similar rate even US dollars ;-) and/but give change in złoty. In Warsaw the traffic is a bit chewy (especially on a large construction site), whereby Hajo detects an alarming rise of his engine temperature. Behind Warsaw (or in this particular case Lomza) the hotels become rare - finally we find a room in Grajewo, but by 8 pm only with difficulty something to eat. Nevertheless I make it to remember the instructions of the penultimate d.r.m. Mega Fete how to transfer the Russian OSM map from Mapsource to the Zumo (and actually to see it there on the display). ° Day 3 We continue through Poland to Lithuania and through to Latvia. Initially, it is again rainy, later at least only cloudy. Here you can already somewhat go in the mood for Russia: the landscape and the roads (sometimes including road conditions) have similarity. In Lithuania the road signs have exactly the Russian style - with two exceptions: the thick black point I have not seen in Russia for some time (but at my first time I did), and two unifying lanes have only one converging arrow (similar like in France) as opposed to the separate Russian "cuddle-arrows". Latvia, however, has distanced himself in this point of Russia: the road signs remind you of what I know most likely in Italy. At a gas station the cashier says, they would be here at the (introduced since the beginning of the year) Euro "already almost accustomed" (and searches willingly for some of the local coins as change). In Daugavpils is a major construction site where the traffic lights need around 5 minutes to go to green. When done, it turns out that again is a dozen of these lights. And each is red ... After a few kilometers drive without road work it repeats after Rezekne. But there we get the most traffic lights at green, resp. once the queue incoming from the previous traffic light just continues to drive, although it is already red again - until then the third last before us decides to stop yet. Well, if he wants to be overtaken ... Unsure if we want / should to cross the border right now (and how long it then takes), we ask in Ludza (the last major town before the border) for a hotel (the 2 the Zumo claims to know figure out as non-existent). The hotel's restaurant has actually closed prematurely. But after we find the neighboring recommendation also been closed, the waitresses (which operate at a banquet in the next room) have mercy and bring us a hot dish. ° Day 4 After a short drive the border from Western Europe to Russia is reached. A KTM rider tells that Latvian border guards have ordered him to go back to the end of the line of cars, what he had done only partially (and we count ourselves in at the same place). After the Latvian zone of clearance (which is significantly more intense than I remember from last time) on the intermediate line of the Russian part the usherette (as we show up there by foot after some time) sends us immediately forward to the actual clearance. Overall, it takes approx. three hours until we are through and have also got us a couple of rubles (one euro is 60 rubles and thus roughly twice as much as last time), which requires detective instinct or questioning will - unlike in Poland, where the exchange offices are numerous and can not be overlooked. Then it goes towards the east and continuously straight. In Rzhev (approx. 200 km before Moscow) in the late afternoon it begins to rain again. Any normal person would be there looking for the closest motel and postpone the onward journey to the next day. But we are, after all, not normal ;-) but remind us that by a northbound detour we would be approaching a the place where a local motorcyclist (let's call him Oleg) lives who eight years ago (when two fellow motorcycles went on strike) was very helpful, and with whom since then I stand in loose contact. Every now and then we thought around of a visit, never it worked out - so when, if not now? So after prior notice and notification of the estimated time of arrival in Tver he wants to receive us. There on the outskirts says a SMS "send me the exact coordinates when you are there." But outdoors (and in the rain) at an intersection in the suburbs? Better over there at the gas station. But to get there we would have to cross the pseudo-highway from Moscow to Leningrad (yes, but in the sense that I was there, it still leads 2:1 against St. Petersburg). So first we go right until an official U turn. But before approaching a such one there is another gas station - and there it is clear that I must inform no more coordinates, because there is a well-known Honda. After a warm welcome we go the last 100 km (partly in the dark in the rain) to Oleg, who quarters us in the guest room of his garage and the same again disappears to bring a snack. | Going East - Part 3: Moscow-North - Omsk ° Day 5 We spend the Sunday at and with Oleg - first with extensive conversation about this and that in his garage or workshop. Among others, he has a complete welding equipment, not only for "normal", but also for aluminum. Later in the morning he goes with us to the city center, where we buy Russian SIM cards (to get these a foreigner without permanent registration had been a major problem last time, but now it works relatively smoothly - by the way the cost of the fun is 600 rubles for the month, where German roaming prices would be at least the same amount in euros), then to the mother-in-law (who has heated the Banja, in their proper use we get a hands-on training), further to his own family (where there is a lunch - "Restaurant? Beware, what is existing here is either dog miserable or closed during the weekend"), in the dacha (where there is to repair a trifle), then again at his wife calls that she had baked a cake - and in between or in the evening in the garage, where we stay a second night. ° Day 6 On a backroad recommended by Oleg it goes to Sergiev Posad (known from Soviet times as Zagorsk) and continue towards Moscow through a few tough flowing large construction sites. Since the suspicion arises that we have overlooked the beltway and already are approaching the "third" inner ring - but at a major intersection, where only local and no more long-term goals are on the signs, I see exactly what you're looking for MKAD East, which later leads to the beginning of the highway M5. Right from Moscow this is signposted AH6 - one has to let melt this on the tongue: a Asian Highway in Europe (and also the European number E30 is still visible during a nice stretch in Asia) ... ° Day 7 The mobile phone cash-up machine in the dormitory (a motel on the M5) has a strange user interface: to get to the desired provider MTS, you have to select the competing provider Megafon - and to properly transform the initial digits for national vs. international code (the national initial 8 corresponds obviously to the international +7). The Zumo navigates abundantly "bib", until I realize that I've still the map of Western Europe active, rather than that I would have switched to Russia. Without great intermediate happenings we follow the M5 until we close the driving day shortly before Samara. ° Day 8 The next day Zhigulyovsk is to traverse (which in the heat is a bit strenuous). At the turnoff to Buguruslan I have stayed some times. The building I would have recognized in passing by, but in near the assumed location I see only a pile of rubble. Also not in the remembered form existent is the bifurcation to Arslanowo (written Aryslan in Bashkir) with a U turn lane between carriageways (and the interesting Bashkir spelling of Moscow ;-). But this is now a "proper" motorway interchange. Unfortunately (as only later found) the cockpit camera does not recognize the shooting command, so that I cannot oppose today's view with the former view. What is still existing like last time is the big distance indicator at milepost 1275, but with clear traces of weathering. On the road several mobile radars are visible (in such an accumulation I don't remember this from other days), but in which we behave sufficiently well-behaved. At Ufa we pass by and shortly after are looking for a motel. There is (quite not self-evident) wi-fi - but what for one: lame and constantly breaking. Because yes, the GPRS connection is still better that I can do with my entrained (not UMTS/LTE-compatible) equipment (and quite sufficient to pull the e-mails on the netbook, as long as people do not include unreasonably large attachments). And the included data volume of my Russian mobile phone card would reach for one GPRS channel for 29 days of continuous operation ;-) course I have it (because I have not all the connecting cables with me) put the Russian SIM card into the main phone which can not write Cyrillic letters (the extra purchased secondary phone could do that, but is now again supporting the German SIM card ...) ° Day 9 Above the Urals there are storm clouds, but we decide to proceed without rain gear until further notice. Some time this works out well, but eventually it rains also on our route - on an official car park we take refuge under an unoccupied stall just in time before the rain gets really heavy (and interspersed with hail). After an hour the continued drive then runs (till evening) dry again. Several bridge construction with single-lane traffic light control and (for trucks) only at walking pace passable are causing longer congestions (was there possibly some holiday initial day of travel or the like - on the return trip there was much less congestion). Driving by to the front is working without angry reactions of the quadricycles. But once even arrived forward there is no move because there is no construction, but an accident involving a bus and another hour of full closure. At the Euro-Asian border Hajo frowns as I go almost from highway speed into circles around the obelisk to finally come to a stop right in front of it: if you pass by here so rarely, this photo is a must ;-) The big square in front is quite empty in the rainy weather - last time in the popping sun it was a big buzz of souvenir merchants. The first major city on the Asian side along the M5 is Chelyabinsk. Hajo fears the city transit, because its engine-cooling circuit makes him the impression that it'd be shortly before the wilt (presumably water pump defective). Since there is now apparently a complete ring road (at least in the Zumo - how could you ever manage to cope without - but in the paper map it is incomplete), but with the typical Russian signage quality, where for each direction exactly one goal is indicated exactly one time. Nevertheless we find the Northern ring after one U turn. At the eastern end of the city where the Zumo in our direction forecasts a motel-free zone (whereby often there are existing more than are known in the Zumo) we stay right there at the crossroads. ° Day 10 Regarding workshop considerations my first idea is only one that in Yekaterinburg (around 200 km north) I would again find where last time was the Honda workshop, from which one there nearby met Italian Transalp rider reported they don't normally service motorcycles, but still had changed him the chain (and extra concerned) - that might at least be a point of reference. But is there really is nothing closer? An internet search (in today's motel the wi-fi is useful) doesn't find any direct hits of local workshops or motorcycle clubs. On the Russian Africa Twin site there is a guy in Hamburg who works (worked?) at Louis, but without contact data. Oh, among the d.r.m. co-readers there is one with good contacts to Louis: maybe he'll find out the cell phone number? However, an employee with the desired name turns out to be untraceable. Trying further then reveals a local four-wheeled Honda shop (ironically it is known only in Google and not in Yandex - the Honda's own search pages only know German addresses or do not work), a "somehow" motorcycle shop - and the impression that there are obviously two motorcycle clubs. The only provided contact is a cell phone number in a user profile. I take along my entire courage and experience to write there in Russian words in Latin characters an SMS to ask for a workshop. (The idea to check with my contact Omsk did not come to mind in that moment - but it is not so improbable that he might have given me a contact in the circle of friendship clubs). In fact, half an hour later a reply SMS arrives with an address - which, however, is again in the West of the city. To avoid the city traffic (with engine overheating risk), we take back the ring road, but now around south. Deemed for substitution is then a sealing ring on the thermostat, the thermostat itself (a suitable used part can be found on a Suzuki) and also the coolant, after the mechanics had fallen into gasping at the information that it was 3 years and especially around 100,000 km old. A trial run in the state looks useful. Charged is merely the material, but for the labor he wants nothing - among motorcycle tourists this would be habitual here. In the evening we stay again in Chelyabinsk, but this time in the "Bike Post" (almost) in the middle of the city. ° Day 11 Continuation of Chelyabinsk-West in direction Kurgan on the southern ring road (so we know it entirely). An unclear signposted motorway junction leads in the wrong direction - the Zumo suggests to go back at an exit in 6 km, but what for is here at the bus stop a crosswalk with a gap in the barrier? The 200km from Petukhovo (there the M51 is still signposted to Omsk eastward, but that goes through Kazakhstan with twice border crossing) to Ishim take about 2 hours. This is quite noteworthy, as it was significantly longer at the last time, where the trucks at a snail's pace crossed wavy lines the entire width of the road to avoid the potholes, from which of a dropped motorcycle nothing would have looked out - and then some kilometers construction site with loose coarse gravel which with the heavily loaded motorcycles was not really viable. But last year it was finally made, reports a local motorcyclist who welcomes us (after obtaining a targeted indication from Omsk) for overnight. The meeting at the Gazpromneft petrol station needs, however, two attempts, because in a few km radius there are a whole sackful of filling stations of this brand. The town has 70,000 inhabitants and 10 motorcyclists - of which only this one sometimes moves out for longer distances. ° Day 12 From Ishim eastwards the road is still (like 5 years ago) in a miserable state. Driving behind a snail's pace truck is merely a nuisance in normal circumstances, but for Hajo with insufficient cooling water transport is a serious problem (the repair of the previous day has lead to some improvement, but not to a real cure). Behind Abatskoje are then several large construction sites or newly renovated sections. On the outskirts of Omsk the Siberian bears are awaiting us: one of them is the local KTM dealer, who first invites us to a tea in his nearby salesroom (there lined up are mainly the various Dukes, less the hard enduros, and also of the two cylinders almost the entire range is there, however, with the current local currency objects of millions), and then to their clubhouse where after plenty of smalltalk they grant us the key to stay over night. | Going East - Part 4: Omsk - Irkutsk As explained by the clubhouse owners we find in a nearby block of flats a small supermarket for breakfast, as well as the airport in close proximity (which is open around the clock, although no flights are scheduled after 7 pm - the scoreboard shows of course mainly Moscow, but between eastern and southern Russian destinations appears also a direct connection to Munich). In the first place useful for us is the bistro. Then the armada of cash dispenser machines is tried: while the ubiquitous Sberbank dispenses not more than 5,000 rubles per operation (that lasts for refueling, eating and sleeping hardly two days - no idea if this limitation is somehow related to the imposed international sanctions), the Gazprombank has the double limit. In the hall (which is like "Karlsruhe" about the size) one also could change money (also the Bank counter is open around the clock) and buy souvenirs: really beautiful things, but for my taste ultimately just gathering dust. There it is ideally many times more valuable that the bears specially crafted a picture frame with their club symbols and grant it to me :-) ° Day 13 The plan resp. proposal would have been that the KTM workshop people look at our motorcycles (with me it is "only" the turning lamps that are no longer functioning properly), and in case of necessity of spare parts they would order them for delivery to friends to Novosibirsk (so that up to there we'd yet have 1 ..2 of driving instead of "useless" waiting on the spot). But Hajo dislikes to proceed further east with uncertain prospects if there the water pump (or what is needed otherwise) will be available, and would prefer to leave off home to have enough time to allow cooling-down rests. In addition or instead Hajo would like to see a doctor to have a cerumen plug removed. Here it is again very advantageous to know the locals, taking us to the right location. After the treatment Vitaly shows us some sights of the city. Unexpectedly difficult turns out to buy stamps: to take these on stock and put the postcards (which especially Hajo intends to write) into the letterbox later seems to be uncommon. Instead the postcards should written first, and then be brought directly to the post office. The Russian driving style is interesting: how our city guide is talking in the car, on the phone and gesturing, it is a permanent worry that it will crash at every moment. But no: he still right in advance sees every pothole, every unexpected lane changer and the like. Speaking about the traffic lights: whether it's punishable to pass still at amber, is unknown to me - at least it is not habitual. Many people even already stop with flashing green (4 seconds before amber as in Austria), for intermediate times or clearance times according RiLSA seem unknown: when changing from amber to red often instantly already the other direction gets green. Who then is still on the intersection (e.g. because the tram tracks are traversable only at a reduced speed), gets honked. Especially nice in this sense are some pedestrian lights, where the green figure is an animated image that passes from the initial leisurely stroll over to increasingly frantic running ;-) ° Day 14 After one more night in Omsk now our ways are separating: Hajo moves back towards the west (from where later the message comes in that he has arrived there with his motorcycle still alive), and I continue towards the east. The road is in almost new condition, and where not, under renovation: the further east, the longer are the single-track sections and the rarer the stoplights. Instead, traffic pointsmen communicate over telephone and allow the way without any lost time as soon as the opposite traffic is through (and by then sometimes asking, what's the point to go to Irkutsk by motorcycle - the train would be so much cheaper ...) For Novosibirsk Vitali has provided me the phone number of a friend and has announced me there. When calling from the outskirts for the exact meeting point, the proposal is to Tolmachevo Airport. I find this as a waypoint in the Zumo and accordingly tell my estimated arrival time. But oh holy shit: this is a forbidden backdoor near the radar tower. To get to the official entrance I have to go back 20 km of gravel roads and need an extra hour to arrive, where already at dusk Kyrill with two other friends is finally expecting me, brings me to his workshop (where the motorcycle stays overnight) and then to his home (where I stay). Among other things, he told me the (partly published in the German Africa Twin forum) history of the Africa Twin which he had last year as a guest, and which suffered from a collapsing transmission output shaft bearing. And that here they get told that the official inflation is at 8% (which in fact corresponds to the increase of petrol prices since last time), but that they are not quite convinced to believe that. ° Day 15 The next morning Kyrill inspects my turn signal problem (which has been postponed from Omsk to here), saying "it merely looks like dirty contacts in the switch, we'll have fixed that quickly". As my departure readiness is getting closer, he asks how far I probably still go today? Oh yes, right there he has a friend near Bogotol ("Hello Wolodia: are you at home tonight? Can I send you over a guest, he is also capable of speaking Russian?"). For a the meeting point I go a few kilometers back from the main road turnoff (who knows how many there are) to the last village to specify a particular gas station as my position. After a few minutes, Viktor is coming and leads me first to his farm (where my Honda stays next to a BMW), and with Volodya further to a remote cabin in the woods, where it goes directly to the reception in the Banya. ° Day 16 Obviously I make a good impression, because apart from the expressive invitation, if I pass on the way back, how far I intend to go today? Oh, right there lives Oleg ;-) Along the way there are Achinsk, Krasnoyarsk and Kansk to deal with. The first would probably also independently no problem, but at a traffic light suddenly a Yamaha (without license plate ;-) is standing beside me, asking for the whence and whither and escorts me to the proper city exit. In Krasnoyarsk is the special feature that at a large roundabout 30 km distant the last time I had plenty of time to take pictures what's sprouting flowers and traffic signs from the ground, while my fellow rider acted as the petrol courier (after I had left out a gas station which only had 92 but no 95). With today's service station network this would certainly no more happen at this point. Also at the Krasnoyarsk ring road (where last time around 100 kilometers there wasn't anything of facilities) now the one or other gas station is in operation, and more in construction. And Kansk is where we last time a local had warned of the bypass road (and instead recommended the city transit). Just out of curiosity, I look at it anyway: it is unchanged (in contrast to many other stretches where renovations have been carried out) the pothole gravel road, where trucks can move only at a snail's pace (but in transit are obliged to take this route). On the eastern edge of the city it's the time to tell my today's hosts the estimated time of arrival roughly one hour ahead. I should call again at the bifurcation of the side road to his village. The meanwhile almost conventional meeting procedure is again picking me up on the outskirts, Banya, and then a barbecue in the garden. ° Day 17 My luggage rack presents itself sluttishly because broken near the left footrest. No problem, says Oleg, in the business I have a welder - so he takes the degraded rack there. Until he comes back, I have also exposed the subframe - and found that the retaining bolt rather than lost is ruptured. No problem: Oleg moves again into the business purpose of a drilling tool - and a third time to bring his specialized colleague, because it does not work out at the first attempt. Ultimately, the broken bolt is out and the luggage rack again fitted firmly. However, this delayed start means that I probably arrive at in Irkutsk only late in the evening. And until there there is still the stretch between Taishet and Tulun which is (at least last time has been) the most adventurous and time-consuming part of the entire route. But there has happened a lot: it is now a completely new road. The former provisional rough gravel road can be found only rudimentarily, and also Tulun (formerly cobblestone in advanced decay) is either repaired or the routing changed. Nevertheless, the Zumo predicts well after midnight, if I still want to go to Irkutsk (well, the repair in the morning has taken some time). The Irkutsk guys would certainly welcome me even then. But with bad luck in between there might be rough roads, construction sites, or newly renovated sections without road painting - each of that is not too enthusiastic in the dark. I'm here on vacation and not on the run, so I'm still looking for another interim motel, after a railroad crossing still delivers the one or other train photo, but as well a quarter of an hour waiting time. ° Day 18 The last stage to Irkutsk runs without any particular difficulty. When again about an hour remains to go, I call the (again obtained in Omsk) number to specify a meeting point: I am advised to continue on the main road until someone will be waiting for me with a motorcycle at the city border of Irkutsk. At a large roundabout the Zumo estimates that we are now less than 2 kilometers to the city center - thus likely "before Irkutsk" at least here is over. As soon as I'm on the stand, a Harley is approaching and looking for me. Pawel (we call him that) brings me to another end of the city and a little further on a Tourbasa. This is a Russian expression for which there is no direct translation - resort could hit it. This one here is shut down since 12 years and is currently refurbished a bit by the motorcycle club people, because their meeting is bound to soon take place here. Whether I have been earlier in Siberia they ask me? Yes, 5 years ago ... "with Volker?" is the reply "and my unsuccessful attempt to get you SIM cards" (and still some details which he remembers in deep details ;-) Later we go back to the city, and I am honored (on this tour for the second time) to quarter at the clubhouse. The same applies to my fetcher who actually lives 1000 kilometers further east. He is here already some more days and thus conveniently explaining all the details of the house. ° Day 19 In the Irkutsk clubhouse I might again fill or maybe change my engine oil (after all, it is 9000 km old). "You have a filter with you here? Have you 1400 rubles?" As fast as I can not see Pawel disappears, and shortly afterwards comes back with 3 liters of oil, and starts to carry out the work (after he has sent me on an engine warmup turn). There is also to change tires on a club member's motorcycle. Again a excursion to the Tourbasa, and then Listvyanka is close - where it is not the glamorous beach promenade with swank audience from all over the world (like I had imagined after the one or other story), but the world rather unimpressively ceases. Nevertheless, the volume of traffic is sufficient (it is weekend return traffic) for 30 km jam at a speed restriction. No one gets upset because when we simply pass. In the evening several members meet at the clubhouse, yet another (except Pawel and me) will remain overnight. The night's dark part is almost over until we have finished talking and yet decide to be tired. | Going East - Part 5: Irkutsk - Barnaul ° Day 20 Actually, I would be able to extend my stay in Irkutsk quite a bit longer - but if I want to visit the meeting at Barnaul and before that do a detour towards Altai, then the time running somewhat short ... My two hosts take me into town for breakfast in a Buryat specialties cafe. One still accompanies me somewhat out of Irkutsk before also he will leave me. The trip goes on the (hereabouts without alternatives) M51 westbound until I finish the day's driving in a motel. ° Day 21 Also the next day is essentially the pure distance coping. The expected end could fit to come back on the return journey Invitation by Viktor? Although it is (again) a little late, but that's no problem. On the last meters to the house in the woods the dirt road after intermittent rain is noticeably more difficult to drive - not with the motorcycle (what would have been difficult enough already in dry conditions), but with the UAZ, who now really needs its four-wheel drive. ° Day 22 First we continue towards the west to Kemerovo, where at the entrance again there is the road sign which assigns a number to the 5 major long-haul destinations - and in the city are often just these numbers on the signposts. Instead of the big main road to the west I go southbound (there is to a certain extent even a proper motorway instead of just "somehow" four-lane street) and find at the second attempt (after a not practicable Zumo recommendation) the somewhat smaller (non-stop paved) road to Barnaul (not going through Novosibirsk). But today's goal is to be a little further south. In Bisk (sometimes it is also spelled Bijsk Biysk) the search for lodging is a bit tough and finally not successful. A little further there is a place to sleep, but to eat I must hurry a bit because the kitchen is not open all night, but only to 9 pm. ° Day 23 So we use the main road through Altai M52 southbound (while holding out for potential guesthouses) until a point from where I can reach back to Barnaul the next day at a convenient time. Initially, the traffic and the building is still pretty tight, but then it rather abruptly becomes lonely (approximately at the point which still can be reached from Novosibirsk without an overnight stay). In this region there are cows and other animals on the road (one time stylefully followed by the cowboy on the horse), the one or other curve, and a mountain pass. However, the Mongolian border it definitely too far for my other plans, so I turn back at a certain time. But it is sufficient to get an impression of how it looks in this region. ° Day 24 On the last part of my Altai trip I meet two enduro riders (from Finland and Italy) - at last you can almost say, because this is the first (and last) time. The typical Western European pairs of Africa or GS that were frequently seen at the last time (about every day we met once or twice) can hardly be noticed this time. There were merely a few lonely enduro riders, or street-bike riders that looked more like Russians than like foreigners. (Did the latter perhaps a little put off due to the big political development?) In Barnaul a larger meeting of Siberian motorcycle club is to take place this weekend. On the outskirts at the inquired the GPS coordinates three locals drive into my way which clearly belong to the organizing club - so I'm simply following them. However, they are not going to the meeting location, but instead to the square in the city center, where have gathered several motorcycles for the subsequent parade through the city (and to the meeting). Actually, I'm here so entirely foreign. But I had informed two people that I would come to this meeting - and the word has spread, at least I'm repeatedly specifically addressed and welcomed. Also addressing me is a policeman, when I just want to go back over the street after taking a photo: "Hey, the crosswalk is over there". And when I get on my way there, he is adding in German(!) "Excuse me please", what causes some amusement of bystanders onlookers ;-) This detour has the advantage that I pass a restroom, what I had previously had been looking for in vain. On a stage a brass band is playing, then after some time there is the call to line up for departure. Under police escort (and stopping the normal traffic) we first go to the railway station and war memorial, then back through the city and finally to the meeting location. Kyrill is here (the one from Novosibirsk), Wolodia is here (the one of from the lonely log cabin), the Siberian bears with its president is here (though without additional accompaniment). And another motorcycle club from Omsk is here, of which I have the club logo sticker on my motorcycle (the last time personally attached by the President when I was there in his capacity as a tire workshop) - so at least I should briefly show up at them (what I have not done on my way east). And also they still exactly remember the last time, when we were driving with them from Omsk to Kemerovo and nearly hit by bricks that fell from oncoming trucks. Since I get assigned a place for my tent despite some tightness in their field. ° Day 25 The day begins with walking around on the site with search and retrieval of old and new acquaintances. In between runs the official program with awarding the most beautiful remodeling, the loudest exhaust, and other more - but there is no contest for the most distant venue. I would have won against a guy from Mainz, but not against one from London, and there was a Vespa with Italian license plate (where may be undecided if that actually traveled from there). For mood of struggle makes on the log, where two fighters are bashing each other with pillows until one will fall down into the mud. One rises so peppy on that he immediately falls on the other side again, and this three consecutive times ;-) "Look to the sky" say the bystanders and shortly afterwards the stage speaker: there (organized especially on the occasion of the meeting) several airplanes draw their orbits, circles, loops and other figures. Not to show up is the rider of a Africa from Kemerovo (color accurately like my own). And the one RN06, which was the parade, is unfortunately not visible at all at the meeting. But then I'm not even just before a Africa, but also its rider - who operates the "Bike Post" in Bisk (pity that I did not know that some days earlier). Another Africa and rider can be found from Moscow - but is on the way towards the east, so that an immediate visit on my trip west does not work out. Again and again, of course, the question is about my lost fellow rider (after I had mentioned him) and his problem with the engine cooling. Why he didn't continue? There yet would be numerous Africas in the country (my impression would be not, or if so, then it's mostly Western European tourists - perhaps it depends on the definition of "many" of similar to the private room where we stayed years ago in Latvia and asked if as many Germans came: "Oh yes, a lot, you're so far this year already the third") - and there is therefore especially parts thereof, without that one must order each one from Japan. They'd like to invite me to one more meeting in Novosibirsk (Kemerovo does not take place this year). But that is down another 2 weeks, and until then I am clearly expected back home ... | Going East - Part 6: Barnaul - Moscow-West ° Day 26 From the meeting in Barnaul "my" Omsk club starts in several random small groups (i.e. not about the president ahead of the entourage behind, or the escort ahead and behind the president, or something). I drive along with two others - they stop after a few kilometers on the hard shoulder, because they have shot down a larger bird that has half torn off the side air filter, which must be correctly fitted again. The screws are almost going lost in the roadside gravel. In Novosibirsk they assume "on the way here we came over there" (instead of driving the official, but longer bypass road), but don't remember all of the details, although this route is even signposted (although not with city names, but with the (old) street number M51). At several stops in between, there are comparisons between their smartphones, my Zumo, road signs, and information asked from locals. After crossing Novosibirsk we continue along, but somewhere along the way I'm losing my fellow riders. It starts to rain. At a bus stop waiting cabin I put the rain gear on. Just when I want to go on, a BMW is stopping behind me and has the same idea - the rider in full Touratech disguise. "I'm going from Baikal to Moscow" - oh, yet one more of those ;-) Then I notice a small detail on the motorcycle, which makes me ask the question "didn't I meet you four weeks ago in the Black Forest?", which results in joyful nodding. His recommendation for the route is in favor of Kazan (and thus against Ryazan according to my outward journey). Call me when you come to Moscow is he saying, puts me his phone number to the tank bag, and is gone. ° Day 27 The previous long day plus the two short nights at the meeting are taking their toll: only at noon I get out of bed and only against 3 pm on the track, because in the adjacent workshop my faithful moto has deserved a bit of maintenance (filling up the oil, cleaning the air filter, and the like) and the one or other tea is due with known guys from the journey there. This way Chelyabinsk is out of today's reach, but instead is Ishim - where in the outskirts I am again expected by Alexei and another local motorcyclists at the motel. They want to know in which condition the road towards Irkutsk is? Och, the first 30 kilometers east are pretty bad, but then continue without any problem. ° Day 28 Instead of the direct route to Chelyabinsk I have made up my mind a detour north via Yekaterinburg with the purpose to visit its Asia-Europe border, from what I meant to have in mind that according to an earlier picked-up leaflet a large visitor center is planned. Until I get there (and it find it unchanged against the last time), the day is again slightly more advanced than one would have imagined for the stress-free drive south until Chelyabinsk. Well, my SMS to Omsk gives "naturally" again a local acquaintance. However, he puts me quite a bit to the torture, the 20 minutes that I meant to have understood on the phone is getting more than an hour (well, my own fault: I might have called right when reaching the city or at least when arriving at the Eurasian border, instead of doing so only after my sightseeing there). In between another guy on the parking makes me smiling with his question whether I was from a certain Russian city? Yahaa, when looking at my license plate somewhat volatile (only the bottom line and without paying attention to the exact font), one can indeed get that impression, and when selecting the letters on the license plates I have had this expressively in mind ;-) But then half of the local motorcycle club is coming up to welcome me. After greeting and consultation we drive into the city center to the nightly meeting place of local motorcyclists, and later continued in a billiard cafe. This is the one hand the club's meeting (with decoration not only of signs and banners, but also two vintage motorcycles) and, secondly, a hotel where I stay. Vitya remains to eat and talk. The fact that I am living not far from the French border I am telling not for the first time throughout this trip - but he asks specifically how far it is from my place to Paris? Around 500 km, i.e. by rail falcon three and a half hours, starting in April 2016 [Addendum: if the accident of the trial trip from Nov.14, 2015 will not cause any delay] is expected even less than three hours. At this point a bit of jealousy is looking out of his buttonholes ... ° Day 29 The next morning again I ring up (like agreed) Vitya. However, he has fever (and his voice sounds like this), so that the planned city tour must be canceled (and I am heading south on my own). But what means here canceled: this is one more reason to visit this region again at later time. Shortly before Chelyabinsk I walk out of the gas station with a murmur "the wi-fi here is almost botch". Two Honda riders are noticing this, saying "so visit me at home, there it works flawlessly". At the entrance of his house he sees with frowning the note that electric power is shut off today. Well - if we're here now, then the meanwhile well-known Bike Post is just around the corner to eat and drink and network. For the case if necessary I'm requesting the address of the Bike Post of my presumable night stay at Ufa. However, when it's getting not only dark but also again rainy, I prefer to stay in the next roadside motel. ° Day 30 In the ongoing rain I drive into Ufa. By the meanwhile acquired backyard instinct I finally find alone (no local motorcyclists are on the streets in this weather) a house with the specified number 15/2 Karla Marksa, but there is nothing pointing to a motorcycle (rider) base. Well then, let's head north (with again less rain). It is interesting at a roundabout in the city with approximately six lanes where a "noisy" police car tries to fight through on the innermost track. I'm on the outermost track and without any jostling faster ;-) It's clear already since some time that my drive chain would need being replaced right after this trip. But now the suspicion arises that it might reach the end of its life already before. So let's look in Kazan for interesting addresses: my Zumo (or its OSM maps) knows at least three points which by their names indicate motorcycle dealers. Two of them actually exist (the nearby third is obviously the old address of the second, who has recently moved), but are already closed in the evening. So let's seek a motel. The first on the inner suburbs claims to be full, the next is a sports resort and much too expensive for mere sleep, the third already on the highway to Moscow is abandoned, as is the fourth. Finally there is a place to sleep in a truck workshop. The room is fine, as is the parking lot guarding, but the overall facility is in slightly worn state and can be reached only by inofficial U-turn at a crosswalk. ° Day 31 An SMS exchange with Oleg reinforces the presumption that best I place to find a new chain is Moscow (which is already on my way), if I still can make it until there - back to Kazan would now already be 40 km, including a long congestion at road works at a bridge. After querying the exact specification Oleg sends a flood of SMS with addresses where he has identified a matching chain as available. Most are naturally in Moscow, but one also halfway in Nizhny Novgorod. Shortly before the turn into the town happens yet, from what I am spared all the previous 15,000 km: a policeman pulling me over. But after looking in the papers and the question of my where-to-going he wants nothing else from me (I would not be aware that I'd committed any infraction). Just at the road the house number can not be found. But a few meters back to the entrance to a business complex a guard is pointing to veeery far behind. There you will find a hall "Lucky Bike" (which at home is written on the cars of a bicycle dealer). After the welcome tea, the mechanics start their work as if there every day would pass an entire bunch of tourists with outworn chain. For my taste, they fix the new chain a bit too tight, so I stop again after a few meters and loosen it. Heading on towards Moscow (here the M7 between Ufa and Moscow is much better developed than the M5 via Ryazan) up in one of the (here numerous) motels. The room even has a private bathroom. ° Day 32 Whether I go in Moscow to the beltway, or even further into it until the third ring? In Noginsk there are thick black clouds ahead, whereas it looks way better to right: so to bypass Moscow I take here the first outer ring road (there is a second such further outward). But also here the traffic is not always really fluid: some stretches are quite congested, especially in the merging into the M9. But once again it doesn't disturb anybody when I just overtake the queue (as far as the oncoming traffic offers sufficient gaps). Behind the M9 ring road is crossing the M11: that is the new "real" highway from Moscow to St. Petersburg. It is still under construction and will be a toll road after the opening, but according to Oleg could already be used. The curiosity to try this does not work, because at the entrance the barriers are quite massive and also workers busy with their completion. So let's continue right to the M10 from Moscow to the West. There is repeatedly no gas station for 50 km, and one time no motel for 200 km - that scarce are the utilities not even back in Siberia (at least where I have been). From the penultimate time I remember that at a similar time of the day we were pretty long looking in vain for a lodging until there was one shortly after a railroad crossing. The railroad crossing is still there, but no longer the motel, but instead an other one. For the sake of completeness (but I'd probably had it found on my own) I let me guide by two riders of an older big Yamaha who I meet on the roadside and just cruise somewhat around the city. | Going East - Part 7: Moscow-West - Germany ° Day 33 Well - the last kilometers in Russia to the Latvian border and the crossing of it are to do. The back-exchange of remaining rubles in euro need again detective instinct: because a gas station, which is labeled as exchange office, doesn't change anything, and the exchange gas station from the eastbound journey doesn't either. The latter refers to this purpose on a comrade who has fallen asleep in a car in front of it. In the event of cases for the next time I request the phone numbers in some of the motels in the border vicinity, then heading on to the actual border. Which queue to use is no question today, because (apart from the trucks which have their own queue anyway) there simply is no queue at this moment. After the Russian part of the border clearance (as far as I remember, the last time we needed to fill in twice a new customs form - whereas this time there is merely an additional stamp on the form from entering the country) the Latvian border guards is asking where the others would be, we had yet been three motorcycles, as if he had recently checked us in the opposite direction. Well, one of them has headed to Mongolia, and the other prematurely back ... In Ludza 50 km west of the border districts I am back into the hotel from the journey there even if it is still a bit early in the day. But I don't remember too much motels along the next kilometers to go ° Day 34 The traffic lights to Daugavpils (despite five weeks work progress) are essentially still the same as on the outward journey. Then it goes without great stay on through Lithuania to Poland. The few remaining Złoty of the outward journey reach only *once* for food *or* sleep *or* refueling. Thus I enter an exchange office (which are much rarer here than in the Polish West). However, the exchange rate offered is such a baseless impertinence (only 1:3.5 instead of 1:4.0xx) that I prefer to look in the next suitable town for a cash dispenser (even if my quota of toll-free withdrawals is exhausted). Yet through Warsaw by (and then look for a motel) would become quite late, so I rather stay a little earlier - which proves good in the sense that northeast of Warsaw there are numerous motels, but not really much along the westbound motorway. ° Day 35 Today (the day before and on the way as already) the Zumo again plays a trick with the timeliness of the map (instead of the Russian OSM maps I have again the Garmin Europe maps active). Because the road through which it wants to send me is in reality still under construction. And because this happened at the A1/A2 motorway junction near Łódz, I am completely wrong northbound and can turn back only after more than 20 km - because before there is no exit (and also no crosswalk or other gaps in the central barrier like in Russia ;-). It might have been better to look in Warsaw (instead of the A2) for the 8, to which I'll come back later. But the very next task is the city transit of Łódz. Whether one would blame me when I take the bus lane? The Polish quadricycles (so my previous impression) seem to be pretty relaxed in this respect - and at the last moment (where it's too late to trigger the on-board camera), I even see on the signs that the bus lane is also expressively permitted for taxis and motorcycles. It's of not too much use though, because there are also some frolicking which would probably not entitled to it. South of Łódz I find again the S8. This is a posh new highway that leads without interruption until Wrocław (where it continues to the A4 and then in the direction Dresden). However, there are no gas stations or eateries (yet?), only bare parking and occasionally signs for gas stations in a certain proximity of exits. After no tolls were charged on this route, I still have some Złoty left, so that I (except for a late lunch and again filling up) take a currency exchange with reasonable euro exchange rate. Via Dresden and Nuremberg I drive home through up - might be still a stopover was not a mistake, because it gets late at night. To find something to eat is difficult although we here in town (or immediately behind its borders) have no less than four motorway roadhouses. But none of them offers warm meals beyond 11 pm (if at all that long). There one first needs to get re-accustomed to after the Russian roadhouses which are operating around the clock ... (For questions or comments: .)